L’ultimo giorno in Montepulciano: updated

A perfect spot to read il giornale.

A perfect spot to read il giornale.

Art deco detail at Politziano, our regular cappuccino stop.

Art deco detail at Poliziano, our regular cappuccino stop.

Sandra, Ali, and I hiked down to San Biagio and around the cemeterio to the white road toward Montefollonico that we hiked two years ago. The entire loop took an hour and a half, but it would have taken much longer to go all the way to Montefollonico. We just wanted to go far enough to get the good views back of the town. It was a lovely hike, and challenging on the climb back up. We stopped by our favorite alimentari to buy tomatoes, marinated eggplant, mozzarella cheese, and focaccia bread to go with Kurt’s wild boar sausage. We made and ate our panini on the terrace. We could not have bought a better lunch. IMG_1902IMG_1905IMG_1906

A view of Montepulciano with San Biagio

A view of Montepulciano with San Biagio

Sandra speaks true Italian (hand gestures)  while buying picnic food at favorite alimentari.

Sandra speaks true Italian (hand gestures) while buying picnic food at favorite alimentari.

In the afternoon we rested, and then we drove back to Sant’ Anna di Camprena to see the Sodoma frescoes we missed yesterday. They are only open to the public for two hours. They line the walls of the refectory which is still used as a dining hall by the Agriturismo that is now housed in the monastery grounds. It was great to see the frescoes in situ. We also love Sodoma’s style. It has such vigor and life. We love the vibrant colors, the details of ordinary life, especially the little dogs, but also the wildly creative designs incorporating pagan mythology. If you’re wondering about his name, although he married and had a daughter, he was widely viewed as a homosexual, thus his “nickname” from 1512 on. His art is considered a bridge between High Renaissance and Mannerism.

Multiplication of the Loaves and Fishes: panel one

Multiplication of the Loaves and Fishes: panel one

Multiplication of the Loaves and Fishes: panel two

Multiplication of the Loaves and Fishes: panel two

Saint Bernardo, the founder of the Olivetan order

Saint Bernardo, the founder of the Olivetan order

Beautiful fresco of Jesus over the door

Beautiful fresco of Jesus over the door

Saint Catherine

Saint Catherine

Sinopia or undersketch for fresco

Sinopia or undersketch for fresco

Pieta

Pieta

Rectory of Sant'Anna di Camprena: Early Frescoes by Sodoma

Refectory of Sant’Anna di Camprena: Early Frescoes by Sodoma

St. Anne, Mary, and Jesus with two Olivetan monks

St. Anne, Mary, and Jesus with two Olivetan monks

We checked out the Agriturismo, but it was very quiet. I took this photo from the courtyard where they had planted many citrus trees in large pots. IMG_1924
As we were leaving, we saw this fox that paused on the side of the rode for us to take his photo.

Un volpe italiano: photo credit to Sandra Martin

Un volpe italiano: photo credit to Sandra Martin

Lovely terracotta shrine

On the way home we stopped for a spritz in Pienza (Kurt had not yet been here) and the Duomo was especially beautiful in the late afternoon light.

Piazza di Pio II

Piazza di Pio II

For our last meal we ate a fuori at Pentolaccia, my favorite restaurant from last time. Our server remembered me!  I love their salmon and the pear Gorgonzola pastry. It was a lovely evening, and the same guitarist that played for the Schmidt Martins on their first evening, while we were en route, was playing again, forming a perfect circle.

La ultima cena

La ultima cena

After gelato down the street from bello ragazzo, we wandered home and up for one more garnet sunset and one more view of Piazza Grande in the moonlight.

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About ssteven2

I'm a reader, writer, swimmer, and school librarian. I love my summers so I can travel.
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3 Responses to L’ultimo giorno in Montepulciano: updated

  1. sandra062013 says:

    Love your photos and commentary, especially of the frescoes. The photo of the Pienza Duomo was particularly beautiful, as was the photo from the Sant’Anna courtyard. Stupefacente!

  2. jmkennon says:

    Gorgeous photos–those frescoes are incredible! Love the photo of Mr. Fox–I’d never guess you’d run into him! And, your sandwiches sound scrumptious! Sara–I have to say once again–you are really an amazing photographer! I know it must be truly wonderful to have such inspirational subjects, but you just really have a knack for framing the photos and capturing the essence of everything. I really want you to put them together in a book–I will buy it!!!

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